Machu Picchu
Walking through railway tunnels
Viernes 18 de Mayo, 1979 - Machu Picchu
At 5:10 am I began walking to Machu Picchu, starting off along the railway line from Aguas Calientes.
I went with the Californian & a Swiss guy. There was enough light from the stars & half moon coming through the patchy clouds, but our problem was passing through two very dark railway tunnels.
We managed by setting fire to some toilet paper & using my box of matches. Around us we could distinguish the towering shapes against the sky. They were incredibly huge & abrupt from our position close to the Urubamba River.
Climbing Machu Picchu
We ascended a hill in the dark, following a steep track. It was becoming lighter and lighter. The track crossed the road several times, but it was quicker than taking the zig-zag graded road.
About 6:30 am I began to see terraces & rocks on the side of the ridge - this was Machu Picchu.
Machu Picchu for sunrise
I entered the gate & quickly climbed to the highest part of the ruins, in order to catch the sunrise over the peaks.
I reached the hut at the top by about 6:40 am and in the company of a handful of Gringos, some of whom had slept in the hut, waited for the sun to pop over the mountain.
It occurred about 7:05 am but it was already well light. However it was a great opportunity to capture the great view of Machu Picchu on film in the soft early morning sunlight.
Exploring Machu Picchu
I walked around the ruins, exploring almost everything. Saw the partially split rock still with wedge-shaped cuts hammered in to form a crack.
Bought a ticket for the ruins 100 sols with student card (otherwise 750 soles) and then went to the Machu Picchu hotel for breakfast. 400 soles ripoff breaky, but where else can you eat so close to one of the most famous structures in the world.
Went back to the ruins and who should I run into, but Monika. She and her 3 German friends from Huancayo had just finished walking the Inca Trail.
About 11 am I saw tourists beginning to arrive from the early morning Cuzco train, so I headed up to Huayna Picchu, the towering granite peak that looks down on Machu Picchu. Great views in all directions, of the river, Machu Picchu & the mountains. Walked down and took more photos amongst the ruins ; One of the Intihuatana rock, the sculptued sun dial; one of the altar-rock in the Temple of The Sun.
Back to base camp - Aguas Calientes
Came down the zig-zag road on about the last mini bus (150 soles) and then walked back to Aguas Calientes along the rail track.
Went to the hot pools for a bath but the water was very dirty. Had soup, chocolate & beer with Monika & the Germans. Feel asleep early as I was very tired from all the day’s walking & climbing.
Quillabamba
Sabado 19 de Mayo Aguas Calientes —> Quillabamba
Took the train to Quillabamba. It came through at 10 am & I travelled comfortably down the Rio Urubamba into the tropical lands of the Selva, otra vez.
Transferred to large van cum taxi which ferried a mob of us up the hill to the Plaza de Armas.
I found a hostal, locked up my pack & then explored the town. Nothing very exciting at Quillabamba. It is probably a good base for more jungle expeditions & journeys into the interior, but I was not in the mood for anything too adventurous.
Looked around the concrete market. Ate there in the evening from one of the instant, cooked-before-your-eyes stalls. 50 soles for 2 fried egg on top of rice, with nice hot cooked cabbage, tomato, etc. Wrote a letter to Terry.
[the above is an excerpt from my travel diary of 1979 - Pilgrimage to Peru]
