Colombia - San Andrés de Pisimbalá
Viernes 16 Febrero 1979 - Popayan —> San Andres de Pisimbala
The road to San Andrés de Pisimbalá
Suzi & I woke ourselves up with an alarm clock (kindly lent by the nice man of Gualcala) at 4:20 am in order to catch a 5 am bus to San Andres de Pisimbala. We managed to down cafe con leche before the bus took off in the dark. The fare was 108 pesos, on a very comfortable and uncrowded autobus. What a pleasure it is to travel on such buses where one doesn’t have to fight & keep secure one’s seat!
The road was narrow & dirt/shingle and as the sky brightened I could see we were travelling through some beautiful green pastures & mountain valleys. There were healthy looking dairy cows on the paddocks and a beautiful landscape of trees dotted over the fields.
The bus stopped about 7 am at a roadside cafe where just about everybody got out to have some coffee & bread. I had cafe tinto - a small cup of sweet black coffee, and pan de queso, a very tasty cheese bread.
It continued on towards Inza, through further spectacular scenery of towering green cliffs & deep valleys. This is really Andes country & it feels good to be here at last. Past Inza, the bus stopped at a sign pointing to San Andres about 9:30 am. We walked for maybe 5 km, stopping for hugos de mora (blackberry juice), and met Loid from Oaklahoma walking along the road.
A Colombian who was on the bus with us, invited the three of us to stay in his house so we walked up to the puebla de San Andres & to his place. He said we could pay him as we like for the room. We arrived very hot & sweaty and were given some guava hugo to refreshen us.
Burial chambers of Alto de San Andrés
I washed some clothes and then went to eat with Suzi. Had an enormous dinner of soup, and rice, veges etc. Suzi and I went for a wander later down a valley, across a bamboo bridge and up a hill to Alto de San Andres, where we explored about 9 caves.
A guide led us down each one & lit matches in the places of most interest. Saw some remarkable markings on the walls & pilars of the caves. One cave had a beautiful design of red & black diamond pattern, as if off a modern wallpaper. There were drawings of human beings & faces in the stone & clay walls.
The caves apparently were solely burial chambers. The floor of each had a little pit where bones were found. There were also some connecting tunnels between caves.
From the top of the hill we could view the whole of the San Andres valley & township perched on the slopes. A beautiful canopy of trees, red in flower, filled the valley.
Other obvious plants were banana trees & bamboo groves. As we walked back it was like coming through an enchanted forest. The whole area is so peaceful & adorned with nature’s beauty. Muy tranquilo.
Met a Venezulean guy &, his Spanish speaking English wife? in the restaurante - discussed Colombia & Venezula, etc. talked with the children at the house, showed them my C.American almanac.
Watched the coffee bean husk washing off process. The guy who owns the house apparently makes his living from growing coffee.
* Sabado 17 Febrero * Saturday 17th February, 1979
Tierradentro - the inner land
I have entered my 25th year in one of the most peaceful and amiable environments I have ever been in: SAN ANDRES DE PISIMBALA, tucked in a beautiful colourful valley where hummingbirds and butterflies dance among the flowers of the trees, surrounded by inspiring misty mountains which bare their giant green rock outcrops, like shoulders and knees.
The valley is painted with huge trees covered in red flowers, which are so bright and crimson when one is close to them. The amazing thing is that these trees flower for only 15 days of the year, and that time is now, the very time I should arrive for my birthday. The valley must never look more beautiful.
The area is called Tierradentro meaning ‘the inner land’ - or a very inaccessible place as it once was.
Birthday cakes
I awoke to discover a little parcel beside my bed, placed by my good friend Suzi. She had given me a very thoughtful little gift - a pack of cards made in Colombia, inside a cloth bag she had sewn herself.
The next wave of kindness came when my ‘adopted’ family came into the room with not one, but two glorious birthday cakes covered in icing.
The elder daughter had specially gone to the market to buy the ingredients, and had baked the cakes specially for me, during the day. I cut off slices and shared them around with everybody.
Lloyd, Susan & myself caught the local bus to Inza at 9 am. Saturday is market day in Inza, so we made the trip to check out the activity. This was a real market for the people, an exchange of fruits and vegetables, animals, and weavings.
I spied some beautiful woolen ponchos but learnt that they were made in Ecuador. Took some photographs using my 135mm lens, and then we returned on the roof of another bus. The mountain scenery is so magnificent that we wanted to have a full, unimpeded view from the top.
Suzi and I explored the Museo at San Andres. They have an interesting collection of funeral pots found in the caves with some well preserved designs on them. I copied one into this book.
Upstairs, were some ethological artifacts of the way of life of the Indian people here; A huge wooden machine, with wooden cogs, for squeezing the juice of sugar cane; drums & clothes. Suzi was given some coco leaves to chew, and some white powdery rock to mix in with her salivary gunk. The guide was very alert & keen to point out everything to us.
The tombs of Alto del Aguacate
After the museum we began a 1½ hr climb to El Aguacate, the site of numerous caves on top of a high ridge, overlooking the valley of San Andres, and on the other side, Inza. We both enjoyed the climb. The air was so clean & fresh, yet not cold.
The most important cave had a little roof structure over it. I went down armed with flashlight & candle & sat for a few minutes, observing some interesting designs of humanoids and/or insects.
One creature had hands with 3 fingers, 4 toed feet and a tail, with a human? face. There were also diamond patterns & snake designs.
Suzi & I carried on along the ridge, past numerous caves. We were guided down a smaller ridge by a little boy whose house was just down the hill. He ran down the hill as if he could fly. We walked for a few more hours, past some hillsides & crops. Arrived back at our home about 5:30 pm.
In the evening we ate at the restaurant just down the hill from our house and met again with Venezulean couple. Suzi had bought me a bottle of Spanish wine for my birthday, which we shared amongst the 5 of us. Unfortunately it didn’t go far. Dinner was steak, rice, tomato & fried banana. We played cards & chatted for the rest of the evening.
And so ended the most excellent birthday I’ve ever enjoyed. Being with people who cared to make it special for me, made the difference.
Domingo 18 Febrero San Andres de Pisimbala
The caves of Alto de Segovia
Had breakfast with Suzi, Lloyd & the Venezueleans. Afterwards we travelled with them down the hill in their Toyota landcruiser & climbed up a hill to Segovia. There all 5 of us explored some of the underground caves. Some had electric light bulbs lying on the ground to illuminate the faces & patterns. The designs were all very similar. Triangular heads on top of pillars, and diamond wallpaper like patterns.
After fooling around with Om sounds & running down & up several caves we returned to the village. The Venezuleans offered Suzi & I rides to San Augustin. Suzi couldn’t resist the offer, but I decided to stay a bit longer in San Andres. She packed quickly & was off - a rather sad moment for us pero we will join each other further along the way, I’m sure.
It is now just Lloyd & I sharing the room. Rested in the afternoon. Wrote up my diary. Went for a short walk up to see the valley of Pisimbala.
On the way I talked to some Indian ladies. They offered me ‘chauca’, some very potent alcoholic drink, from which they themselves were already bombed. Walked along with an Indian man who lived far away on the other side of the valley. Tomorrow I will walk further into the region.
Had dinner with Lloyd, and a bunch of other gringos at the restaurante. Two dutch people, two french guys & very slick slick French lady! Had an enjoyable meal & conversation, at times very humorous, esp. as a drunken Colombiano tryed to talk to all of us.
He shared his ‘chauca’ with us tambien a taste rather like oozo in N.Z. Talked with the family back at the house. I gave away four of my tikis to them & some N.Z. coins.
Lunes 19 Febrero 1979 San Andres —> Pisimbala —> Tumbichucue —> San Andres
The kindness of strangers
Today I went for a 9 hour walk. (Doesn’t that sound impressive?) After breakfast I departed with day pack and walked off towards Pisimbala, further up this valley. I ran into the boy from my family and he guided me on, first passing the little school where a bunch of tiny tots were having their lessons on the porch.
Our next stop was at a house built of mud, plastered over a wooden frame. The man showed me inside his very dark home. His wife was sitting in a little room separated from the main living area - it was the kitchen. Outside the pigs were drinking from a stone trough - a lipped bowl carved entirely out of a giant rock.
I also saw his sugar cane squeezing machine - some metal gears which were turned by a long wooden lever on top. We stopped at a house where they offered me some ‘chichi’ drink - it tasted like fermented sugar cane juice & was excellent.
We walked off through coffee and banana tree plantations, up a track to the crest of a big hill. Here we sat and looked over the beautiful valley of Pisimbala. I changed into my shorts at this stage, getting prepared for a walk of many more hours.
The boy left me to have his cena & I carried on alone into the mountains. I passed a few Indians on the trail, some with horses. I kept a good eye on where I was coming from, remembering the shape of the hills around the valley. so that I would easily recognise the area when or if I returned by a far & different trail.
I walked happily on around bush clad cliffs, scattering butterflies which were dining on horseshit, and listening to the sounds of birds, & bees & streams. I stopped at most streams for a cold wash & drink.
Some water flows had been tapped with bamboo shoots, creating a little water drop to facilitate the ladies who come to fetch their water for the house. I wandered off on a path which came to a dead end, but at a little house.
The man there immediately ordered his children to bring me a seat & fetch some fruit from the trees. I plonked myself down on a little piece of wood about 6” above the ground, and was handed 3 green apricots. They were quite digestible however, and very much appreciated. I reciprocated by giving him the cake of chocolate that I had bought for the walk. I thought it was the eating variety but it wasn’t, as I found out much to my distaste.
He then invited me into his casa, out of the sun, where I sat in the smoke of his indoor fire. I had been watching the smoke come out of his roof, which had a small gap to release the smoke.
Much to my surprise he produced an egg the pot of boiling water over the fire, and handed it to me on a plastic plate, with side dipper of salt. I carefully devoured the egg, muchas graciased him & left for further afield.
A very kind person who was willing to give what little he had, to help a stranger that just walked up to his house.
I climbed to the top of a pass that led to another big valley, with another village or group or group of houses scattered in close proximity. Down I went, passing more streams & little mud houses.
At about 1:30 pm I rested, taking my shoes & socks off & finishing off the last of the apricots. I walked back down a grassy slope (grazing area for the ‘wild’ - correction - free - horses) and plunged my feet into the very cold river.
My feet felt so good to have the stimulation of the soft grass under them, plus the air around. It was as if with every step they received a gentle massage.
As I walked along in this way I theorised that perhaps man’s ills are caused by lack of stimulation of the nerve endings in the feet, because he always shields them with shoes. I recalled how important the feet are in healing massage because every part of the body has its nerve ending & control point there.
What more natural way to walk than to go barefoot?
After so much walking it was good to give my feet some attention. I chilled them in the ice-cold river water & walked on the sun hot rocks, dryed them in the sun & gently massaged them.
I had walked for 6 hours before deciding to turn around, but it turned out the return journey was only 3 hours. So I arrived back at 5:15 pm. Stopped on the way at the friendly house with the chici & drank another 23 cupfulls.
Had comida of potatoes, rice & platanos, with a tomato slice. Played with the children. Sat on the porch & chatted. I think my Spanish is improving, especially here.
Met some Colombians in the restaurant who have a finca down the road. One is a doctor & el habla buena English. Si!
Martes 20 Febrero, 1979 San Andres de Pisimbala
The statues of El Tablón
Wrote a postcard to Vicky Newick in very small writing over the breakfast table, whilst having cafe & fried platanos on the house.
Walked up the hill to look at las estatuas del Tablon. Talked to the caretaker there, who was trimming the grass & raking the leaves. He pointed out the various parts of the statues, such as their toes (cinco), bracelets, skirts, etc.
The statues were grouped around in a semi-circle of sorts, but the majority faced the west, towards the setting sun. One rock even represented a serpent, its head & eyes clearly distinguishable.
I carefully aligned ‘the love trees’ for a photograph & also captured a wild orchid growing off the side of a tree. Had a mayacuya hugo con leche, bought an archaeological guide to San Agustin & Tierradentro for 50 pesos and climbed back up to Segovia tombas.
This time I saw the tomb with its burial pots intact - a fantasic sight - one reserved normally only for achaelogical diggers. I returned to a deep tomb and copied the wall design and a face from another.
I talked there with an intelligent sort of bloke inspecting las tumbas - he was very interested in me when he saw my drawing of the salamander & realised my intense interest in the area.
I walked back through fields of coffee, clambering over rocks, prickly trees and in the beginning passing a few homes. After coming down the hill from El Tablon I was called to by a little girl wanting me to buy a gaseosa. So for 5 pesos I drank a manzana juice & talked to her about her house, her animals & her patches of materials.
Ate again at the restaurant down the hill & around my table happened to sit four people from Belgium. Anna & Jacque, & Anna’s Mum & Dad. Anna & Jacque live in Colombia, Near Cali, after having met here while travelling 4 years ago.
They asked where I was going & when, & then invited me along in their jeep to San Augustin tomorrow. Back at the Hurtado house I talked with Mario for a while. Also was introduced to Irma’s sobrina, Mary & went with her to her house to look at her postcards.
Miercoles 21 Febrero, 1979 San Andres de Pisimbala —> San Agustin
Family conviviality and goodbyes
Woke up to market day at San Andres. Wandered down to check out the activities. Bought some pan integral. Watched the Indians buying their meat, etc.
Back at the house, I started packing & saying goodbyes. Lolita came & gave me a big kiss. Irma gave me a woolen crocheted thing, and lots of bananas & guayabas. Took some more photos of the family.
Walked down to the jeep and about 11 am I was away with Belgians. Jaques drove very fast, but extremely well, over the narrow shingly roads.
Made a stop to collect a plant hanging on tree branches, which as Anna said ‘grows on air’ as if was a plant from another planet.
We stopped for comida & beers. Arrived in San Agustin about 5 pm. Walked to Posada & took a room for 40 pesos, looked around the town of San Agustin. Nothing like San Andres - it seems like being in a big city coming here.
Found the vegetarian restaurant & ate a beautiful comida, soup, main course & herb tea. Naturally enough Susu & the Venezuleans walked in, & they are also staying at the Posada. Chatted over some more tea.
